Things to do in Copenhagen Denmark
Introduction Centre of Danish government, administration and finance, Copenhagen is home to nearly one third of Denmark's people. It also lodges the old royal dynasty in Europe.
In 1157 Valdemar I becomes king. At this time, Copenhagen is a little fishing village called Havn (harbour). But thanks to its position at the entrance to the Baltic, one of the main trading routes of medieval Europe, Havn quickly develops into an important trade centre. Statesman and warrior hero Bishop Absalon builds a fortified castle on Havn's harbour island, Slotsholmen, in 1167, the year considered as founding date of today’s city. In 1170, it changes its name to Kopmannrehafn (merchants' harbour).
During his reign (1340-75), King Valdemar IV Atterdag leads Denmark into conflict with its Nordic neighbours. However his daughter Margrete marries Hakon VI, king of Norway and Sweden, and by the Treaty of Kalmar in 1397, the three Nordic countries are unified under her rule. The following 200 years are marked by internal strife, the Lutheran movement and constant wars against Sweden. Copenhagen is enlarged and becomes official capital under Christopher III of Bavaria. With the founding of its university in 1497 it also becomes the cultural centre of Denmark.
The Reformation takes place in 1536 under Christian III who declares himself supreme authority of a State Church based on Lutheranism. During the first half of the 17th century, Christian IV enlarges Copenhagen and erects many fine buildings. In 1660 the town becomes a free city all residents being granted the same privileges as the nobles.
By the latter half of the 17th century, Denmark is forced to relinquish remaining Swedish possessions. During the 18th century, Copenhagen suffers a plague (1711-12) and two devastating fires (1728 and 1795). Serfdom in Denmark is abolished in 1788. Denmark gets involved in the European revolutionary wars without really wishing it.
Copenhagen is attacked by the British in 1801 and again in 1807 when the Danes have to hand over the rest of their fleet to the British, only to be forced immediately afterwards to sign an alliance with Napoleon who is marching into Jutland.
To payoff war debts, Denmark has to hand over Norway to Sweden in 1814. 50 years later it loses the Schleswig and Holstein duchies to Bismarck's Prussia. In 1848 Frederik VII is forced to relinquish absolute rule to the National Liberal Party. Denmark stays neutral in World War 1. In 1920, North Schleswig votes itself back again from Germany into Denmark. During World War II, Copenhagen escapes large scale destruction. In 1949 the country enters NATO and in 1972 becomes a member of the EEC.
What to see in Copenhagen Denmark
No one visiting Copenhagen would wish to miss the statue of the Little Mermaid (Den Litle Havfrue), as well known and beloved as Hans Christian Andersen himself. In his fairy tale, the tragic sea girl exchanged her voice for human legs in order to gain the love of an earthly prince, but mutely had to watch as he jilted her for a real princess. In desperation, she threw herself into the sea and turned to foam. Today she sits forever on a small clump of rocks, looking wistfully out to sea.
Watching over the Little Mermaid is the 300-year old Citadel (Kastelet), a cornerstone of Christian IV's defences of Copenhagen. The 300yearold fort (built mostly between 1662 and 1725) is still used by the army the church, prison and main guardhouse have resisted the assaults of time. It is a delightfully peaceful enclave in a modern city, and has a charming windmill (1847) as well as remains of the old ramparts.
The nearby Gefion Fountain is Copenhagen's most spectacular. Erected by the Carlsberg Foundation, it depicts the legend of the Nordic goddess Gefion, who turned her four sons into oxen and used them to plough the island of Zealand out of Sweden.
Ama Henborg Palace, home of the royal family, is situated in a spacious and stately square off Bredgade. Actually, it is not a square but a cobbled octagon, on four sides of which stand identical mansion like palaces. These were originally designed as noblemen's homes by court architect Nicolai Eigtved during a city expansion in the 1750's. After Christiansborg Castle (formerly the royal residence), was destroyed by fire in 1794, the royal family gradually bought up Amalienborg from the nobles and has lived there ever since.
Today it's reckoned to be one of the finest Rococo ensembles in Europe. Its centrepiece is a unique copper equestrian monument to King Frederik V. Outside, the ceremony of the changing of the guards is sometimes to be seen. For a complete change of atmosphere you could visit the lively seamen's quarter, Nyhavn. Hans Christian Andersen spent part of his life in this area. Though he would still recognize the facades and buildings, he would find quite a change: it is now a mixture of taverns, topless discos and tattoo parlours on the immediate north side, and elsewhere of elegantly restored frontages, luxury apartments, some good restaurants and one superb hotel conversion of an 18thcentury warehouse.
Copenhagen canals
(From the Kongens Nytorv end of Nyhavn you can take a trip round Copenhagen's canals. Lasting about one hour, these trips provide an excellent view of many parts of the city and of such fascinating harbours as Christianshavn.) On Siotsholm Island, linked to the capital by several bridges, is the Christiansborg Palace, once the home of the royal family and now that of the Danish parliament.
This is the sixth castle or palace on the site since Bishop Absalon, founder of Copenhagen, built his fortress here in 1167, pillage, fire or rebuilding frenzy having taken their subsequent toll. The third castle became the permanent seat of king and government in 1417. The present edifice dates only from the early years of this century.
Christians borg's chapel, the riding lodges and lovely restored marble bridge, which managed to survive two disastrous fires in 1794 and 1884, help to give the palace a more venerable aspect than its generally very recen t origins might lead one to expect. The palace houses three museums:
On a tour of the Royal Reception Chambers you can see a series of rooms in everything from imitation marble to the richly tapestries, gold and green room where monarchs are proclaimed from the balcony overlooking the Castle Square below.
In a vast building on the southeast side of Christians borg is housed the Royal Arsenal Museum (Tojhusmuseel) where you are greeted by attendants in three cornered hats and knee length red jackets. It's appropriate for a museum housing one of Europe's most important collections of military uniforms and historic equipment.
Across the royal riding grounds at the rear of Christiansborg, and in an elegant little terrace above the stables, is one of the world's most unusual theatre museums, the Teaterhistorisk Museum. |It is unusual, for a start, because of the constant aroma of horses seeping up through the 200yearold creaky floorboards, and it has always been thus. Already at the former Court Theatre's first production in 1767, the authentic country smell was remarked on.
The small auditorium and galleries of the former Court Theatre are packed with Danish and international theatre relics memorabilia of Hans Christian Andersen, Anna Pavlova, Ibsen; playbills, costumes, prints and photographs of Danish theatre history.
Just off the Castle Square is the highly ornamented Borsen (Stock Exchange), dating from the days of Christian IV. It has a green copper roof with a famous spire composed of four intricately intertwined dragons' tails. The National museet (National Museum) on Frederiksholm Kanal is the biggest museum in Scandinavia. It holds an uncountable number of exhibits in eight separate major collections, ranging from prehistoric to Middle Ages, town and manor culture, ethnographical, special and classical antiquity, coins and medals.
Riidhuspladsen (Town Hall Square) is the city's largest square from which 14 streets branch out in different directions. A hub of constant activity, it has several notable statues and, of course, the Town Hall itself. Built between 1892 and 1905, this building boasts, among other things, an impressive main hall and banqueting room, as well as a world clock designed by Jens Olsen. One of the streets leading off Radhuspladsen is Stroget, the capital's most famous pedestrian street with its numerous small bars, pavement cafes and excellent shops. It winds its way for three quarters of a mile to the city's other main square, Kongens Nytorv, changing its name four times en route Frederiksberggade, Nygade, Vimmelskaftet and Amagertorv.
The famous Tivoli Gardens are just across the street from Radhuspladsen. These gardens, the pride and joy of the people of Copenhagen, are unique in that they provide something for everyone. There are fountains, bands, orchestras, theatres, lakes, bridges, a pagoda, restaurants, flower beds, slot machines, and donkey rides; it is a place in which to enjoy yourself or simply relax. Almost opposite Tivoli, down Axeltorv, is Copenhagen's famous circus.
The Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek, across Tietgensgade from Tivoli, was founded on the classical collection of Carl Jacobsen, Danish brewer and art connoisseur (1842-1914), and developed by his family. Today, under one elaborate roof, you can thus see one of the world's foremost exhibitions of Egyptian, Greek, Roman and Etruscan art, with enough statues and artefacts to equip 100 ancient temples. In quite another vein, there are 25 Gauguins, three van Goghs and seven Rodin statues, as well as a complete set of Degas bronzes delicate little statues that won the painter posthumous acclaim as a sculptor. A museum with two distinct sides to it, in fact.
Slightly off the main tourist route, but well worth a visit, is the Rundetarn (Round Tower), built in 1642 by Christian IV as an astronomical observatory. It has been one of the city's most beloved landmarks for 300 years, even if it only reaches the modest height of 118 feet (36 m.).
You can walk to the top, but not by steps these would have been impractical for raising the heavy equipment needed there. Instead, a wide spiral sloping causeway winds its way round for almost 700 feet (209 m.) inside the tower. Not only did Czar Peter the Great ride up it on horseback in 1716 his empress followed in a coach and six. Rosenborg Castle, on the other side of town, boasts exhibits which span Danish royal history over the past 300 years. Of special interest are Christian IV's tower room study, the Knight's Hall and the treasury which contains the crown jewels.
North of Copenhagen and car hire
If you want to travel north of Copenhagen, hire a car from the airport to save you time and money when you arrive in Denmark.
At the Frilandsmuseet (Open Air Folk Museum) at Sorgenfri, the 90acre (36ha.) site is scattered with forty farmhouses, cottages and workshops, all furnished in strictly authentic style. Broadly, the buildings are divided into geographic groups laid out along country lanes, with old bridges and village pumps, the whole authentically landscaped.
Another popular excursion is the lovely drive to Helsingor, along the so-called Danish Riviera with its small fishing villages and bays. If it's seaside weather, you might be tempted to stop en route and join the bathers at Bellevue Beach near Klampenborg. At Helsingar itself (better known as Elsinore), Hamlet's castle juts out dramatically towards Sweden. In fact, though the film was shot on this site, Hamlet himself never slept here, nor did he ever see a ghost within these walls.
The castle's real name is Kronborg, and it was built between 1574 and 1585 at the command of King Frederik II. Its purpose was to help extract tolls from ships entering the narrow Sound (and thus the Baltic) at this point. Restored this century, the moated brick castle stands today as Frederik's proudest memorial, now sparsely furnished but immensely impressive. It has the feel of solid strength and royal presence, permeating the elaborate little chapel, the long galleries and stone stairways, and above all the huge oak beamed Banqueting Hall.
At 205 feet by 36 (62 x II m.), it is the largest hall of its kind in northern Europe and one of the noblest rooms of the Danish Renaissance. The interesting Handels og Sofartsmuseum (Trade and Maritime Museum) in the castle's northern wing contains an exhibition of old navigation instruments as well as relics from early Danish settlements in Greenland and elsewhere.
In the rolling farmland of North Zealand lies Fredensborg Slot. Built between 1719 and 1722, it is a perfect exampIe of Italian/Dutch Baroque, situated on a small hill, surrounded by grounds which were the delight of King Frederik V, who turned this hunting seat into a royal summer residence. You can stroll around the beautiful, lakeside grounds any time, but the royal apartments and private garden are opened to visitors only when the royal family is absent.
Six miles (9 km.) away, near Hillemd, stands Frederiksborg Slot, one of the greatest Renaissance castles in northern Europe and the most monumental achievement of the Great Builder, Christian IV. In 1859 much of the interior of the castle was destroyed by fire but was later restored by a Danish brewer, J. C. Jacobsen, and turned into a museum. Today, in more than 60 rooms, is a complete record of the Danish monarchy from Christian I down to the present queen.
Also of interest are the Knights' Hall, awesome in its dimensions, and the richly carved and ornamented chapel with an organ dating back to 1610, virtually unchanged. Remarkably, the chapel escaped almost untouched from the disastrous fire.
What to eat in Denmark
There are approximately 178 varieties of smorrebrod, those buttered slices of rye or white bread covered with one or a variety of delicacies: veal, beef tartare, liver paste, salmon, smoked eel, codroe, shrimps, herring, ham, roast beef, salad or cheese. This main layer is garnished with a variety of accessories carefully selected to enhance both taste and appearance.
Koldt bord
The cold buffet style spread is known in Denmark as koldt bord (cold table), and resembles the Swedish smorgasbord. For a fixed price, you start at one end of the table helping yourself to herring in various preparations, seafood, mayonnaise salads and other delicacies, and continue on to sample liver paste, ham and other cuts of meat. Despite its name, a kold bord always includes a few hot items, such as meat balls, pork sausages, soup and fried potatoes. Several kinds of bread and salads are also provided.
En platte is a cold dish (smaller version of previous) made up of six to eight specialities, often eaten at lunchtime.
Fish in Denmark
Herring is a great favourite, served pickled, marinated or fried, with a sherry, vinegar, curry or fennel dressing. The succulent red Greenland shrimps are keen competitors in the popularity stakes. Lobster is widely available (but not cheap), as arc crab, salmon, cod and halibut. The little oresund rodspcette (red spot plaice) is on every menu. A speciality in summer is danske rejer, the small pink shrimps from local waters, served piled high on white bread.
Shopping in Denmark
There's value added tax on all goods bought in Denmark. In many cases it can be waived or funded on purchases by residents of other countries ask the retailer.
What to Buy in Denmark
Amber necklaces. The local gem (actually fossil resin) found in the southern Baltic, is probably cheaper here than back home, but starting prices still have a tendency to be rather high. Danish porcelain. The big names are Royal Copenhagen Porcelain and Bing & Gmndahl. Furs are fantastic quality. Glassware and household products in stainless steel are particularly good buys if you want top design matched with excellent craftsmanship.
Knitwear is Nordicstyle, often highly patterned, warm and perhaps expensive. Lamps are a lovingly designed product, as are household textiles and hand woven rugs. Silver is a Danish speciality, dominated by the name Georg Jensen. Silver in Denmark is quality-controlled and must be hallmarked. Pipes are another indigenous craft. Toys are simple and attractive, especially those in solid wood: trains, ships, etc. Souvenirs are myriad: little mermaids, Copenhagen dolls in black lace caps and frilly skirts, ceramic blue figurines and animals. All kinds of trolls and Vikings also abound naturally!
In 1157 Valdemar I becomes king. At this time, Copenhagen is a little fishing village called Havn (harbour). But thanks to its position at the entrance to the Baltic, one of the main trading routes of medieval Europe, Havn quickly develops into an important trade centre. Statesman and warrior hero Bishop Absalon builds a fortified castle on Havn's harbour island, Slotsholmen, in 1167, the year considered as founding date of today’s city. In 1170, it changes its name to Kopmannrehafn (merchants' harbour).
During his reign (1340-75), King Valdemar IV Atterdag leads Denmark into conflict with its Nordic neighbours. However his daughter Margrete marries Hakon VI, king of Norway and Sweden, and by the Treaty of Kalmar in 1397, the three Nordic countries are unified under her rule. The following 200 years are marked by internal strife, the Lutheran movement and constant wars against Sweden. Copenhagen is enlarged and becomes official capital under Christopher III of Bavaria. With the founding of its university in 1497 it also becomes the cultural centre of Denmark.
The Reformation takes place in 1536 under Christian III who declares himself supreme authority of a State Church based on Lutheranism. During the first half of the 17th century, Christian IV enlarges Copenhagen and erects many fine buildings. In 1660 the town becomes a free city all residents being granted the same privileges as the nobles.
By the latter half of the 17th century, Denmark is forced to relinquish remaining Swedish possessions. During the 18th century, Copenhagen suffers a plague (1711-12) and two devastating fires (1728 and 1795). Serfdom in Denmark is abolished in 1788. Denmark gets involved in the European revolutionary wars without really wishing it.
Copenhagen is attacked by the British in 1801 and again in 1807 when the Danes have to hand over the rest of their fleet to the British, only to be forced immediately afterwards to sign an alliance with Napoleon who is marching into Jutland.
To payoff war debts, Denmark has to hand over Norway to Sweden in 1814. 50 years later it loses the Schleswig and Holstein duchies to Bismarck's Prussia. In 1848 Frederik VII is forced to relinquish absolute rule to the National Liberal Party. Denmark stays neutral in World War 1. In 1920, North Schleswig votes itself back again from Germany into Denmark. During World War II, Copenhagen escapes large scale destruction. In 1949 the country enters NATO and in 1972 becomes a member of the EEC.
What to see in Copenhagen Denmark
No one visiting Copenhagen would wish to miss the statue of the Little Mermaid (Den Litle Havfrue), as well known and beloved as Hans Christian Andersen himself. In his fairy tale, the tragic sea girl exchanged her voice for human legs in order to gain the love of an earthly prince, but mutely had to watch as he jilted her for a real princess. In desperation, she threw herself into the sea and turned to foam. Today she sits forever on a small clump of rocks, looking wistfully out to sea.
Watching over the Little Mermaid is the 300-year old Citadel (Kastelet), a cornerstone of Christian IV's defences of Copenhagen. The 300yearold fort (built mostly between 1662 and 1725) is still used by the army the church, prison and main guardhouse have resisted the assaults of time. It is a delightfully peaceful enclave in a modern city, and has a charming windmill (1847) as well as remains of the old ramparts.
The nearby Gefion Fountain is Copenhagen's most spectacular. Erected by the Carlsberg Foundation, it depicts the legend of the Nordic goddess Gefion, who turned her four sons into oxen and used them to plough the island of Zealand out of Sweden.
Ama Henborg Palace, home of the royal family, is situated in a spacious and stately square off Bredgade. Actually, it is not a square but a cobbled octagon, on four sides of which stand identical mansion like palaces. These were originally designed as noblemen's homes by court architect Nicolai Eigtved during a city expansion in the 1750's. After Christiansborg Castle (formerly the royal residence), was destroyed by fire in 1794, the royal family gradually bought up Amalienborg from the nobles and has lived there ever since.
Today it's reckoned to be one of the finest Rococo ensembles in Europe. Its centrepiece is a unique copper equestrian monument to King Frederik V. Outside, the ceremony of the changing of the guards is sometimes to be seen. For a complete change of atmosphere you could visit the lively seamen's quarter, Nyhavn. Hans Christian Andersen spent part of his life in this area. Though he would still recognize the facades and buildings, he would find quite a change: it is now a mixture of taverns, topless discos and tattoo parlours on the immediate north side, and elsewhere of elegantly restored frontages, luxury apartments, some good restaurants and one superb hotel conversion of an 18thcentury warehouse.
Copenhagen canals
(From the Kongens Nytorv end of Nyhavn you can take a trip round Copenhagen's canals. Lasting about one hour, these trips provide an excellent view of many parts of the city and of such fascinating harbours as Christianshavn.) On Siotsholm Island, linked to the capital by several bridges, is the Christiansborg Palace, once the home of the royal family and now that of the Danish parliament.
This is the sixth castle or palace on the site since Bishop Absalon, founder of Copenhagen, built his fortress here in 1167, pillage, fire or rebuilding frenzy having taken their subsequent toll. The third castle became the permanent seat of king and government in 1417. The present edifice dates only from the early years of this century.
Christians borg's chapel, the riding lodges and lovely restored marble bridge, which managed to survive two disastrous fires in 1794 and 1884, help to give the palace a more venerable aspect than its generally very recen t origins might lead one to expect. The palace houses three museums:
On a tour of the Royal Reception Chambers you can see a series of rooms in everything from imitation marble to the richly tapestries, gold and green room where monarchs are proclaimed from the balcony overlooking the Castle Square below.
In a vast building on the southeast side of Christians borg is housed the Royal Arsenal Museum (Tojhusmuseel) where you are greeted by attendants in three cornered hats and knee length red jackets. It's appropriate for a museum housing one of Europe's most important collections of military uniforms and historic equipment.
Across the royal riding grounds at the rear of Christiansborg, and in an elegant little terrace above the stables, is one of the world's most unusual theatre museums, the Teaterhistorisk Museum. |It is unusual, for a start, because of the constant aroma of horses seeping up through the 200yearold creaky floorboards, and it has always been thus. Already at the former Court Theatre's first production in 1767, the authentic country smell was remarked on.
The small auditorium and galleries of the former Court Theatre are packed with Danish and international theatre relics memorabilia of Hans Christian Andersen, Anna Pavlova, Ibsen; playbills, costumes, prints and photographs of Danish theatre history.
Just off the Castle Square is the highly ornamented Borsen (Stock Exchange), dating from the days of Christian IV. It has a green copper roof with a famous spire composed of four intricately intertwined dragons' tails. The National museet (National Museum) on Frederiksholm Kanal is the biggest museum in Scandinavia. It holds an uncountable number of exhibits in eight separate major collections, ranging from prehistoric to Middle Ages, town and manor culture, ethnographical, special and classical antiquity, coins and medals.
Riidhuspladsen (Town Hall Square) is the city's largest square from which 14 streets branch out in different directions. A hub of constant activity, it has several notable statues and, of course, the Town Hall itself. Built between 1892 and 1905, this building boasts, among other things, an impressive main hall and banqueting room, as well as a world clock designed by Jens Olsen. One of the streets leading off Radhuspladsen is Stroget, the capital's most famous pedestrian street with its numerous small bars, pavement cafes and excellent shops. It winds its way for three quarters of a mile to the city's other main square, Kongens Nytorv, changing its name four times en route Frederiksberggade, Nygade, Vimmelskaftet and Amagertorv.
The famous Tivoli Gardens are just across the street from Radhuspladsen. These gardens, the pride and joy of the people of Copenhagen, are unique in that they provide something for everyone. There are fountains, bands, orchestras, theatres, lakes, bridges, a pagoda, restaurants, flower beds, slot machines, and donkey rides; it is a place in which to enjoy yourself or simply relax. Almost opposite Tivoli, down Axeltorv, is Copenhagen's famous circus.
The Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek, across Tietgensgade from Tivoli, was founded on the classical collection of Carl Jacobsen, Danish brewer and art connoisseur (1842-1914), and developed by his family. Today, under one elaborate roof, you can thus see one of the world's foremost exhibitions of Egyptian, Greek, Roman and Etruscan art, with enough statues and artefacts to equip 100 ancient temples. In quite another vein, there are 25 Gauguins, three van Goghs and seven Rodin statues, as well as a complete set of Degas bronzes delicate little statues that won the painter posthumous acclaim as a sculptor. A museum with two distinct sides to it, in fact.
Slightly off the main tourist route, but well worth a visit, is the Rundetarn (Round Tower), built in 1642 by Christian IV as an astronomical observatory. It has been one of the city's most beloved landmarks for 300 years, even if it only reaches the modest height of 118 feet (36 m.).
You can walk to the top, but not by steps these would have been impractical for raising the heavy equipment needed there. Instead, a wide spiral sloping causeway winds its way round for almost 700 feet (209 m.) inside the tower. Not only did Czar Peter the Great ride up it on horseback in 1716 his empress followed in a coach and six. Rosenborg Castle, on the other side of town, boasts exhibits which span Danish royal history over the past 300 years. Of special interest are Christian IV's tower room study, the Knight's Hall and the treasury which contains the crown jewels.
North of Copenhagen and car hire
If you want to travel north of Copenhagen, hire a car from the airport to save you time and money when you arrive in Denmark.
At the Frilandsmuseet (Open Air Folk Museum) at Sorgenfri, the 90acre (36ha.) site is scattered with forty farmhouses, cottages and workshops, all furnished in strictly authentic style. Broadly, the buildings are divided into geographic groups laid out along country lanes, with old bridges and village pumps, the whole authentically landscaped.
Another popular excursion is the lovely drive to Helsingor, along the so-called Danish Riviera with its small fishing villages and bays. If it's seaside weather, you might be tempted to stop en route and join the bathers at Bellevue Beach near Klampenborg. At Helsingar itself (better known as Elsinore), Hamlet's castle juts out dramatically towards Sweden. In fact, though the film was shot on this site, Hamlet himself never slept here, nor did he ever see a ghost within these walls.
The castle's real name is Kronborg, and it was built between 1574 and 1585 at the command of King Frederik II. Its purpose was to help extract tolls from ships entering the narrow Sound (and thus the Baltic) at this point. Restored this century, the moated brick castle stands today as Frederik's proudest memorial, now sparsely furnished but immensely impressive. It has the feel of solid strength and royal presence, permeating the elaborate little chapel, the long galleries and stone stairways, and above all the huge oak beamed Banqueting Hall.
At 205 feet by 36 (62 x II m.), it is the largest hall of its kind in northern Europe and one of the noblest rooms of the Danish Renaissance. The interesting Handels og Sofartsmuseum (Trade and Maritime Museum) in the castle's northern wing contains an exhibition of old navigation instruments as well as relics from early Danish settlements in Greenland and elsewhere.
In the rolling farmland of North Zealand lies Fredensborg Slot. Built between 1719 and 1722, it is a perfect exampIe of Italian/Dutch Baroque, situated on a small hill, surrounded by grounds which were the delight of King Frederik V, who turned this hunting seat into a royal summer residence. You can stroll around the beautiful, lakeside grounds any time, but the royal apartments and private garden are opened to visitors only when the royal family is absent.
Six miles (9 km.) away, near Hillemd, stands Frederiksborg Slot, one of the greatest Renaissance castles in northern Europe and the most monumental achievement of the Great Builder, Christian IV. In 1859 much of the interior of the castle was destroyed by fire but was later restored by a Danish brewer, J. C. Jacobsen, and turned into a museum. Today, in more than 60 rooms, is a complete record of the Danish monarchy from Christian I down to the present queen.
Also of interest are the Knights' Hall, awesome in its dimensions, and the richly carved and ornamented chapel with an organ dating back to 1610, virtually unchanged. Remarkably, the chapel escaped almost untouched from the disastrous fire.
What to eat in Denmark
There are approximately 178 varieties of smorrebrod, those buttered slices of rye or white bread covered with one or a variety of delicacies: veal, beef tartare, liver paste, salmon, smoked eel, codroe, shrimps, herring, ham, roast beef, salad or cheese. This main layer is garnished with a variety of accessories carefully selected to enhance both taste and appearance.
Koldt bord
The cold buffet style spread is known in Denmark as koldt bord (cold table), and resembles the Swedish smorgasbord. For a fixed price, you start at one end of the table helping yourself to herring in various preparations, seafood, mayonnaise salads and other delicacies, and continue on to sample liver paste, ham and other cuts of meat. Despite its name, a kold bord always includes a few hot items, such as meat balls, pork sausages, soup and fried potatoes. Several kinds of bread and salads are also provided.
En platte is a cold dish (smaller version of previous) made up of six to eight specialities, often eaten at lunchtime.
Fish in Denmark
Herring is a great favourite, served pickled, marinated or fried, with a sherry, vinegar, curry or fennel dressing. The succulent red Greenland shrimps are keen competitors in the popularity stakes. Lobster is widely available (but not cheap), as arc crab, salmon, cod and halibut. The little oresund rodspcette (red spot plaice) is on every menu. A speciality in summer is danske rejer, the small pink shrimps from local waters, served piled high on white bread.
Shopping in Denmark
There's value added tax on all goods bought in Denmark. In many cases it can be waived or funded on purchases by residents of other countries ask the retailer.
What to Buy in Denmark
Amber necklaces. The local gem (actually fossil resin) found in the southern Baltic, is probably cheaper here than back home, but starting prices still have a tendency to be rather high. Danish porcelain. The big names are Royal Copenhagen Porcelain and Bing & Gmndahl. Furs are fantastic quality. Glassware and household products in stainless steel are particularly good buys if you want top design matched with excellent craftsmanship.
Knitwear is Nordicstyle, often highly patterned, warm and perhaps expensive. Lamps are a lovingly designed product, as are household textiles and hand woven rugs. Silver is a Danish speciality, dominated by the name Georg Jensen. Silver in Denmark is quality-controlled and must be hallmarked. Pipes are another indigenous craft. Toys are simple and attractive, especially those in solid wood: trains, ships, etc. Souvenirs are myriad: little mermaids, Copenhagen dolls in black lace caps and frilly skirts, ceramic blue figurines and animals. All kinds of trolls and Vikings also abound naturally!
Labels: North of Copenhagen and car hire
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